La Historidad

On Saturday and Sunday, Sabado y Domingo, I was able to wander around the narrow streets, amongst the brightly colored buildings with shallow balconies and picturesque railings within "El Viejo San Juan." I am enamored with the old city and all of it's aura. I was also able to tour the Catedral de San Juan, El Castillo de San Cristobal, y El Morro. Of which all construction was origjnally started in the early to mid-1500's. Tomorrow . . . . .

Fue Bailando en El Viejo San Juan

After enjoying a Mojto or two, Puerto Rico's signature drink, I was compelled to attempt to keep time with the live Latin rhythms pulsating from the corner of the small, tightly packed night club. Everyone else was dancing, either salsa, merengue, or something comparable while I just tried not to embarrass myself or offend anybody. But it was still a good evening.
Maybe tomorrow I will experience something more accustomed to me; like breakfast, or history.

More New Places

San Juan, Puerto Rico.

One Hell Of A Trip

5,440 miles.
93.150 gallons of gas.
81 postcards.
25 days.
9 States.
1 Great Adventure.


Northwest of Marfa, TX, Farm Road 505, Davis Mountains in the distance.

Back in Kansas

In West Mineral, KS, there lies a big machine, "Big Brutus." Currently a museum and local attraction, it is 160 feet tall (16 stories), weighs 11 million pounds, and at one time was the largest steam shovel in the world. A few pictures, then on to Fort Scott, KS to say "Howdy" to another firend before finally returning to Kansas City.

Meredith and Malley.

I Saw Dallas Today

Not sure why it was such a popular TV show, but I was talking about the city anyway. And at 70 mph, on the 45th anniversity of the unfortunate final day of President J.F.K. After leaving the dinosaurs behind, I stopped in Glen Rose, TX at "Debbie's Restaraunt" and filled up on multiple plates of their hearty all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet (which included some absolutely amazing grits). During breakfast I checked the weather forcast. My final planned stop on this motorcycle adventure was to see "Ol' Roy" himself in Dallas and to open up a barrell of monkeys and whiskey before returning to my origins. But rain and cold winds over the weekend were in the forecast, and my friend was to be out of town until Monday. Because of my lack of planning and for the sake of my digits, I had to take the warmer window of travel to the north. Presently, I am in Wagoner, OK, and tomorrow, shall continue north.

Deer, Hawks, and Dinosaurs, Oh My!

An easy day riding south on two-lane farm roads, I stopped frequently before I got too cold. I am about sick of gas station coffee and hot chocolate. For the night I set up camp in Dinosaur Valley State Park a few miles north of Glen Rose, TX.

Roar!

"Could someone please help me scratch my nose, I can't reach. These stupid forelegs are as underdeveloped as my brain."

The Architect & The Pilot

"There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots;

but there are no old, bold pilots."

Jennie and USAF Captain "Jammer"

Dan & Jennie

After a cold and tiresome day I was relieved to arrive in Wichita Falls, TX. Dan took me on a tour of Sheppard Air Force Base, where he is a flight instructor with the 90th Flying Squadron "Boxing Bears." And he let me try on his helmet and parachute pack.

At Least Tumbleweeds Have Enough Sense to Go With the Wind

But me, I fought the cold, fierce crosswinds of the North Texas Plains all day long as I first went South through Happy, TX then East to Wichita Falls. It was cold enough that I had to stop three times and thaw out my fingers and toes.

Little Green Men

No not aliens, cadets, at the New Mexico Millitary Institute. After I visited the International UFO Museum & Research Center I passed the NMMI on my way out of town heading northeast toward Amarillo, TX. A rather monotonous ride across the North Texas prairie. I passed through towns like Portales, NM, "10,000 Friendly People and 3 or 4 Old Grouches," Friona, TX, "The Biggest Small Town in the Country," and Hereford, TX, "The Beef Capital of the World." I also passed six freight trains and was able to get five of them to honk their air horns. Tonight my tent is set up in Palo Duro Canyon State Park at the very bottom of the second largest canyon in the USA. There are no clouds and plenty of stars and it will be cold again tonight, but I do not think I will have to worry about any intoxicated New Mexicans being loud and obnoxious in the middle of the night.

My Kind of Place

Stopped here for breakfast and to thaw out my toes. However, my "steel horse" was the only equine object in the parking lot. Roswell, NM.

Blah, Blah, Blah, and a Cowboy Fish Dinner

Waiting all morning to have a new chain and set of sprockets put on my bike. Blah.
The bill. Blah. (But they did wash it.)
The nonstop ride from Albuquerque to Bottomless Lakes State Park east of Roswell. Blah.
Too dark, and too tired to build a fire, I enjoyed a "Cowboy Fish Dinner," of crackers and sardines, before crawling into my tent for a long, cold night.

Mineral Bath Monday

After building a crackling fire in the sand to keep me company and warm while I packed up in the morning, I headed for the historic Charles Hotel and Spa in Truth or Consequences, NM. An hour soak in the naturally hot mineral water was refreshing. Then it was north to Albuquerque for the night where I would pick up a new chain and set of sprockets the following morning. After having dinner at Lucy's Diner, which had been serving customers since the twenties, I spent the night at the Route 66 Hostel. Both were situated on the historic highway and in Albuquerque's downtown area .

Pie and Consequences

Out of Arizona, as I returned to the east side of the Continental Divide, I passed through Pie Town, NM, which consists of a few buildings and two cafes. And like the name may suggest, the town is known for having pie, so I stopped. At both cafes. I enjoyed a piece of New Mexican Apple pie, and a piece of Chocolate Merengue. Full of delicious pie I continued east to NM road 52. The majority of which is gravel and runs south between the San Mateo and the Black mountain ranges. One hundred some miles later I was in Elephant Butte Lake State Park north of Truth or Consequences, NM. I arrived at dusk and had some difficulty finding the tent camping area on the 36,500 acre lake. At one point I took a shortcut through a sandy area, there were lots of tire tracks, and it looked like solid ground, but it was mostly soft sand and I dumped the bike. Noone was around, but I was embarrased and irritated. Finally I found the remote and very empty camping area, set up my tent, built a fire, and slept soundly, despite the below 40•F temperature.

East : (

No more racing the sunset each day, it is time to return to the Central Standard Time Zone. I started by riding north through the White Mountains on Eastern Arizona #191, an appropriately designated scenic byway. Over a hundred miles of continuous "S" curves, steep grades, and "U" turns with steep mountain slopes inches from the edge of the highway. A beautifully frightening day of riding, but I was relieved once the highway straightened out. However, the two state parks I had considered staying at were closed for the season, so I spent another night in a motel, in Springerville, AZ.

By Area, What is the Fifth Largest State in the USA?

New Mexico.

Very happy to leave the mess that is El Paso behind me, I took NM # 9 west across the grasslands of southern NM with small mountain ranges to the north and south. Most of the few vehicles I encountered were border patrol trucks and semis. Covering 300 miles all day into Arizona, I passed maybe ten small towns, if you can call most of them towns. And at one stop in Columbus, NM, I was only three miles from the Mexican city of Palomas, and the locals said all I needed was my D.L. to cross the border and return. Very enticing, but I continued west through more new country and into the mountains of eastern Arizona where I camped at Roper Mountain State Park east of Cactus Flat, AZ.

. . . . . Motorcycle Hiccups

Trying to keep up with the eighteen wheelers on I-10, I was moving at a pretty good pace, and suddenly my engine red-lined. I pulled over and saw that my chain popped off the rear sprocket. Fortunately it did not break. Unfortunately, I had to put it back in place on the side of I-10, in the middle of west Texas, a hundred-some miles from anywhere, with nothing but passing semis to keep me company. Chain back in place, I continued on to El Paso. And despite the brilliant sunset above the city lights and mountain silohuettes, I do not care one bit for the city. By my translation, El Paso means, in English, "The armpit of Texas." Horrible drivers, rush hour, poorly marked roads, mountain passes and the cold night air put me in a foul mood. That along with the fact that I missed my intended turn on the other side of the mountains caused me to find a motel room in Alexander, TX. I did not get to camp out under the full moon.

Marfa, Mountains and . . .

After barely sleeping because of the cold, I crawled out of my tent early, saw frost on my motorbike, and decided to hike up a nearby mountain to watch the sunrise. Great view. Next, for no particular reason, I wanted to go to Marfa, TX (where James Dean filmed his last movie). So I went. Then took a curvacious two-lane back north through the Davis Mountains to I-10, which would lead me toward El Paso and Franklin Mountain State Park . . . . .

Mountains In Texas?

Before leaving Seminole Canyon I took the guided tour down into the canyon to see some prehistoric pictographs. The tour was nice but moved slow (because of the geriatrics and the obese) but being down in the canyon was the best part, another very different view of Texas. Then west again, across the Pecos River to Langtry, TX. Named after "The Jersey Lilly," Miss Lilly Langtry, a British actress, by Judge Roy Bean, "The Law West of the Pecos." He was the territory's Judge and town's saloon owner, and he used the same building for both of his professions. Next, the Davis Mountain State Park, nestled in the Davis Mountains just outside Fort Davis, TX, elevation 5,050 feet.

Del Rio

That means "Of The Rio," in English.
Headed southwest following the Texas Pecos Trail today. All day I saw few vehicles and lots of wildlife: deer, wild turkeys, antelope, buzzards, squirrels, birds of prey, one dead porcupine, but no armadillos, or alligators. I left the tree covered limestone hills and deep ravines, washes, gulches and draws of the beautiful Texas Hill Country and turned West at Bracketville into the rugged and desolate northern foothills of the Sierra Madres in SW Texas near where the Pecos River converges with the Rio Grande. Shortly after I turned west I was able to see the Sierra Madres on the edge of the southern sky. They beckoned for me to explore them all afternoon and into the evening. If only I had my passport . . . . .

Tonight I am camped beneath an almost full moon in Seminole Canyon State Park. 

Happy Veteran's Day

U.S. Army, Captain "Awsome" (a.k.a. D.M.F. M.D.)

Texas Hill Country

A few hours and a three digit service bill later, I roll out of the Alamo BMW shop and head north into the hills. A minor leak in a valve cover might slow me down and cause me mental anguish, but it will not stop me from exploring new horizons. I stopped briefly for some pictures at Pedernales Falls near Johnson City (think president L.B.J.) and then west again through Lukenboch, TX. I am not sure what all the country music fuss is all about, I blinked and almost missed it.  It looked like all the other tiny Texas towns I have passed through. Anyway I set up camp at the South Llano River State Park near Junction, TX and am enjoying a miniature pecan pie and a nightcap.

Enchanted Rock

A lazy Sunday: brunch with Brian, Brittany and David, watched some football, then drove about an hour north to see Fredericksburg and Enchanted Rock State Park.

Enchanted Rock, David.

Sunset from the pink granite summit 1,085 feet above sea level.

David, Sam

Remember The Alamo

Sam, Brittany, Brian, David

Nighttime at The Alamo.

Back in the Big City

Packed up in the cold this morning (41•F) and took the 1604 Loop around San Antonio from the SE corner to the NW outskirts to the BMW shop. The bike is running well but still dripping oil and so just to make sure, I am going to have the mechanic take a look at it before I go further west. Maybe just a faulty valve cover, but hopefully just something simple, easy, and inexpensive.

Mmmm Beer

Stopped in the quiet town of Shiner, TX (pop. 2,070) this afternoon for a quick tour of the Spoetzel Brewery before turning west again. Tonight I am camped along the eastern shore of Calaveras Lake, and tomorrow will ride the twenty more miles on into San Antonio and stay in the city for a night or two.

Mmmm Breakfast

I had an amazing sunrise to pack up with this morning and as I was leaving the park I saw around twenty deer scattered amongst the trees near the road. Heading NE I stopped in Whitset, TX for some huevos and chorizo breakfast burritos before comtinuing on to Shiner, TX.

I Spy An Alligator

This sign is posted near my campsite. Good thing too, because I saw an alligator lurking in the water this evening. Hopefully it stays there and does not decide to try and get cozy with me in my tent tonight.

Cacophony or Symphony?

Before breakfast this morning, I took a nice refreshing plunge into the Gulf of Mexico. A bit salty. Then I loaded up my gear and headed north, taking my time and even stopping for a nap on a picnic table in Agua Dulce. Tonight my apartment is set up next to Choke Canyon Reservoir in Choke Canyon State Park west of Three Rivers, TX. The reservoir is an ornithologists heaven and it seemed like every bird was greeting me as I pulled into the park just before dusk. But now that the sun is down, it is just me, the crickets and the owls beneath the stars.

Texas is Big, Windy

Left Houston after lunch and headed further south toward Corpus Christi. Galvaston Island State Park was closed due to hurricane damage so I planned to stay on Mustang Island for the night. After some shrimp quesadillas in Port Aransas, rode ten more miles to Mustang Island State Park and set up camp beneath the stars and half moon. The wind was gusting to thirty mph but soon I had my tent up and then took a moonlit walk along the empty beach looking for fiddler crabs before I called it a day.

Museum of Fine Arts Houston

Today was relaxing, I took a shower, wrote a few postcards and went to the Museum of Fine Arts. Rode around the city to see what I could see, it is different, kind of disorganized (they have no zoning laws) and very big and very busy.

Sculpture by Alexander Calder, "The Crab"

Sculpture by Deborah Butterfield, "Apu"

Houston

The front door.













Originally I wanted to camp at Sea Rim State Park, south of Port Arthur, TX, on the gulf coast but it was closed because of hurricane damage as well. So I rode into the night and spent the night at my college friend Brian's house and will wander around Houston today and be on my way tomorrow.


Brian & Brittany (Brian is the big spoon).

One, Two, Three . . . Texas

I saw ONE alligator today. As I was heading west on I-10 between Baton Rouge and Lafayette, which is a split highway that runs almost the entire fifty-five odd miles through swamps, marshes and bayous and built about forty feet above the current water level on top of concrete pylons. From my safe vantage point, I would have to guess he was between seven and nine feet long. Following the scenic Creole Nature Trail (LA 82) SW out of Lafayette, then west along the gulf coast through marshes, prairies and a number of hurricane beaten communities. At Cameron, LA I had to board a ferry to take me across the waterway that linked Calcaieu Lake to the Gulf of Mexico and on the seven minute ride I spotted TWO dolphins playing in the ships wake. Further west the gulf coast was less than fifty yards from the edge of the battered road with sandy shores and multiple tire tracks leading away from the road. A bit envious of the previous thrill seekers, and filled with excitement, I made a quick left and then a right and was on the beach myself. Riding west into the setting sun with an enormous smile on my face, until large rocks and a diminishing beach forced me to return to the pavement almost THREE miles later. Then I was in Texas.

Go West Young Man, Go West!

"Eastward I go only by force; but westward I go free. It is hard for me to believe that I shall find fair landscapes or sufficient wildness and freedom behind the eastern horizon. I am not excited by the prospect of a walk thither; but I believe that the forest which I see in the western horizon stretches uninterruptedly toward the setting sun, and there are no towns or cities of enough consequence to disturb me. Let me live where I will, on this side is the city, on that the wilderness, and ever I am leaving the city more and more, and withdrawing into the
wilderness . . ."

- Henry David Thoreau, "Walking"

Cajun Cuisine

I wanted to set up camp at a state park SE of Lafayette but the state website said it was still closed for repairs after the most recent hurricanes. So I was headed for a different state park about forty miles to the SE of Baton Rouge instead. The website description said alligators could sometimes be seen in nearby Lake Maurepas. But it got late and dark, and I was tired and hungry. So I stopped just east of Baton Rouge at a KOA and had a delicious dinner of fried crawfish tails and etouffee at Don's Seafood Hut. So far, the only alligators I have seen have been the truck tire treads scattered on the shoulders of the highways. Perhaps tomorrow, I hope to ride along the gulf coast into Texas, if the road is passable.

Southern Sun & Hospitality

There was plenty of sunshine and friendly people as I continued South on my journey. Crossing the mighty Mississippi into Natchez, MI. I stopped briefly for some pictures and postcards then returned to Vidalia, LA where I saw this bold and unabashed advertisement. I had to get a picture but passed on the crack. LA 15 & LA 1 are more quiet two-lanes with big sweeping curves that followed the Mississippi River, the Old River and the False River sections south to Baton Rouge, LA. It was a picturesque ride through new country and for a couple of stretches of five or six miles I took the gravel maintenance road on top of the levee. The high road gave me an expansive view of the river basin to the East and acres of farmland to the West.

Of Peach Cobbler and Dutch Ovens

South of the capital, the the sharp corners and hairpin turns throughout the dense deciduous trees and steep slopes of the Ozark Mountains quickly change. They stretch out into shallow rolling hills
and big sweeping curves that cut through man planted forests of tall skinny pine trees destined for the local mills. If you keep your hand on the throttle and your tires between the ditches, in no time at all you're camped in Northern Louisiana having homemade peach cobbler, baked in a Dutch Oven, with some friendly Louisianans in Chemin-A-Haut State Park.

Presidential Stuff

The bike seemed to be running OK so I stopped at the William Jefferson Clinton Presidential Library & Archives in Little Rock. I liked the modern design and concept, but was disappointed with the way in which it was carried out. How part of the structure was engineered, specifically the fire-escape helping to support the main cantilevered part extending north toward the Arkansas River. A local I spoke with at a gas station referred to it as a "Waste of tax dollars that looked like a giant trailer on stilts." Rather than engage the man in a discussion about any nuances or theories concerning modern architecture or anything political, I changed the subject to the weather forecast and was soon on my way into Southern Arkansas.